By Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief, Global Cosmetic Industry
In last week’s blog I talked about the key drivers behind the global suncare market, looking particularly at a number of brands that have developed ‘fun’ and ‘easy’ products to help protect against sun damage, as well as those that are aimed at consumers with a broad spectrum of skin tones and beauty needs. In this installment, I will delve even deeper into the sector by examining the impact of improving existing formats and creating new ones to bring innovation and excitement.
After her own experience with skin cancer, Gillian Robson looked for a product that offered self-tanning with sun protection but could not find one. So, working with co-founder Katy Foxcroft, sun protection expert Dr. Jack Ferguson and experienced formulator Jo Warren, she developed her own. The result is Tancream, “a blend of organic sunscreens, gradual self-tanning and instant bronzing” that offers SPF 50 protection, according to the brand. The premium luxury lotion, which was featured at the CEW UK product demo event, has anti-ageing properties, no odor and doesn’t streak.
Meanwhile, SkinCeuticals has launched Discoloration Defense, a corrective serum that reportedly counteracts the production of excess melanin production caused by UV exposure, prescription drugs and some professional treatments. The result is the prevention of discoloration such as brown patches and post-acne marks.
Discoloration Defense is formulated with 3% tranexamic acid to minimize the appearance of discoloration and brown patches, 5% niacinamide to reduce the appearance of discoloration, 5% HEPES to boost cell turnover and 1% kojic acid to enhance skin brightness.
According to the brand, a 12-week study with clinical evaluations found that the Discoloration Defenses key ingredients generated a 60% average reduction in the appearance of brown patches, 59% average reduction in discoloration, 81% average reduction in post-acne marks and 59% improvement in overall skin tone.
On the ingredient level, Inolex has introduced LexFilm Sun Natural (INCI: Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) a film former. The material is a pourable viscous fluid—as opposed to a crystalline solid—easing the process of formulating and manufacturing and, ultimately, offering consumers more even coverage in sun care products. Produced using the principles of green chemistry, the plant-based, multi-dimensional polymer can be used in skin care, hair care and color cosmetics.
(1) Source: Euromonitor’s proprietary data platform; https://go.euromonitor.com/passport.html
(2) Mark S. Nestor, Brian Berman and Nicole Swenson, “Safety and Efficacy of Oral Polypodium leucotomos Extract in Healthy Adult Subjects.” J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, Feb, 8(2):19–23 (2015)
(3) The impact of oral Polypodium leucotomos extract on ultraviolet B response: A human clinical study. J Am Acad Dermatol, 77(1):33-41 (2017)